Thanks for supporting the Sleep Sensei by getting the Maker Faire special! Below are some tips for soldering together the components to make yourself a Sleep Sensei!
Here is the anatomy of the main side of the board:
220 Ω Resistor: This resistor is striped red red brown and is used as a pulldown resistor for the button. This can be soldered in any orientation as direction doesn’t matter!
10 kΩ Resistors: There is a pair of these brown black orange striped resistors used with the rotary encoder. Again, these can be soldered in any orientation.
10 µF Capacitor: This is used to regulate the power delivered to the board. The white stripe (and shorter leg) indicate the negative side which should face towards the near edge of the board. This is also indicated by the – symbol on the board itself.
Socket: By soldering the socket on, you can remove the ATtiny85 chip to reprogram it in future. This also protects the ATtiny85 from the heat of soldering.
ATtiny85: This is the brain of the Sleep Sensei, and it comes pre-programmed for you. When you plug this into the socket, make sure the dot on the chip faces the capacitor.
Battery pack: On all Sleep Senseis, the wire is trimmed to 1″ – 1.5″, but you can shorten it to whatever length you would like. The positive (red) wire is soldered to the nearer edge of the board as shown in the photo.
The back of the Sleep Sensei is fairly simple:
Rotary encoder: All production Sleep Senseis have the rotary encoder soldered onto this side; however, you can choose to solder it onto the other side! The only difference is that any counter-clockwise action will be read as clockwise and vice versa. This can be useful for mounting the Sleep Sensei into your own housing.
Red LEDs: Like the capacitor, the short lead indicates the negative side of this component. The negative leads are all towards the center of the board. The are also indicated as circular solder pads, while the positive terminal solder pads are square.
Good luck and have fun constructing your own Sleep Sensei!